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Ruffs at the neck were popular during this period. Spencers gained popularity, though pelisses and shawls were equally favored as outer garments. Both spencers and pelisses became more elaborate by 1815, with more complicated detail and ornament. Bonnet crowns became higher beginning in 1814. The crown and poke would continue to increase in size for the next ten years.
Figure 2
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Ackermann's Repository
June 1813
"Promenade Dress"
Magazine text:
"A plain morning gown, of fine cambric or jaconet muslin, with long sleeves, and front cut low at the bosom, appliquéd with lace; a shirt of the same, with a full gathered frill round the throat. A Pomeranian mantle of jonquille satin, trimmed round with a deep white lace. A provincial bonnet, composed of jonquille satin and Chinese cord, confined under the chin, and ornamented on one side with corresponding ribband, a cluster of flowers on the other. A sash of jonquille ribband, tied in front of the waist. Gloves and half-boots of pale lilac or jonquille kid. Parasol either white or pale lilac."
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During the early years of this brief range, the skirt portion of the dress is still quite long, covering the tops of the feet, and often including a train. The plates show that, in general, the hem length shortens and trains disappear as the years progress. The silhouette also becomes slightly slimmer as the fullness of the skirt, once gathered all the way around the waist, is drawn to the center back, producing a full back and flatter front. Also notice that although an outer garment may be seen in a variety of colors, the dress beneath is almost always white. As we go beyond the years represented here, more color and pattern will be seen in the dresses. Throughout this period, England was at war with France, and a quasi-military style often crept into women's fashion. Note the military cut of the pelisse in figure 8 and the spencer in figure 5, and helmet shape of the bonnet in figure 12.
La Belle Assemblée
June 1813 (printed in the April issue)
"Afternoon Promenade Dress"
Magazine text:
"Short dress of jaconet muslin, made rather scantier in the skirt than they have been worn, and cut down as much as possible all round the bosom and back of the neck. The body is full, but drawn in at the top of the back, which is ornamented with a white silk button, and confined to the waist by a girdle of rich white figured ribband; a jacket of the same materials as the gown, fastened to the waist by a white silk button, completes this elegant dress, which is unequaled for taste and simplicity. Over this our fair pedestrians throw a sky-blue scarf. Bonnet of white-willow shavings, ornamented with a flower and wreath of sky-blue, and tied under the chin with a ribband to correspond. Hair dressed in very loose curls on each side of the temple and divided very much in front. Gloves and sandals of sky-blue kid. Necklace and earrings of white cornelian. Johnston parasol. This elegant appendage to the walking costume is also of sky-blue silk, and finished with a rich and deep fringe; it has very recently made its appearance, and is already a general favorite."
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Figure 3
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Fashion often made reference to current events. Note, for example, the Vittoria Cloak in Figure 5, commemorating Wellington's victory at the Battle of Vittoria in June 1813. Note also the Waterloo Walking Dress in Figure 14, a half-mourning costume in honor of the final victory over Napoleon in June 1815.
Be sure to click on the images to see the enlarged versions. The tiny thumbnail images do not do them justice.
Note on the plates: The date given for each La Belle Assemblée print represents the date printed at the bottom of the plate, and is the date for the next month. That is, the July issue presented fashions for August, and the plates are dated as August. The Ackermann dates correspond with the magazine issue date.
Lots more prints below. Click on any print to open another window with a larger image.
Figure 4
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Ackermann's Repository
July 1813
"Morning Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"A cambric or jaconet muslin round robe, with long sleeves and falling collar, trimmed with a plaiting of net, or edged with lace, finished at the feet with a border of needlework. A Cossack mantle of Pomona green shot sarsnet, lined throughout with white silk, and bordered with a double row of Chinese binding, the ends finished with rich correspondent tassels, and a cape formed of double and deep Vandyke lace. A provincial poke bonnet, or yellow quilted satin; ribband to correspond with the mantle, puffed across the crown, and tied under the chin; a small cluster of flowers placed on the left side, similar to those on the small lace cap, which is seen beneath. Parasol and shoes the colour of the mantle, and glove a pale tan colour."
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Ackermann's Repository
September 1813
"Promenade Dress"
Magazine text:
"A white jaconet muslin high dress, with long sleeves and collar of needlework; treble flounces of plaited muslin round the bottom; wrist and collar confined with a silk cord and tassel. The hair disposed in the Eastern style, with a fancy flower in front or on one side. A Vittoria cloak, or Pyrennean mantle, of Pomona green sarsnet, trimmed with Spanish fringe of a corresponding shade, and confined in graceful folds on the left shoulder. A white lace veil thrown over the headdress. A large Eastern parasol, the colour of the mantle, with deep Chinese awning. Roman shoe, or Spanish slipper, of Pomona green kid, or jean. Gloves or primrose or amber-coloured kid."
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Figure 5
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Figure 6
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La Belle Assemblée
October 1814 (printed in the September issue)
"Morning Walking Dress"
Invented and to be had only of Mrs. Bell
Magazine text:
"Jaconet muslin high dress, with a triple flounceof muslin embroidery round the edge, and slightly scalloped; a row of worked points surmonts the top flounce. The body is composed of jaconet muslin and letting-in lace; the former cut to broad strips and sewed full to the latter, whihc is about an inch in breadth; this body is ade up to the throat, but has no collar; the shape is the same as last month, except that the back is a little broader. Long sleeve of muslin and lace to correspond with the body. |
"Spenceret of rose coloured velvet of a form the msot elegantly simple and tasteful that we have seen; it is very short int he waist, and tight to the shape; it is ornamented at the top by a lce frill, and is cut so as to coer the bosom but to leave the neck bare. The spenceret is vry much admired, and is certainly truly elegant, but it owes its principal attraction tot he corset over whihc it is worn, and certainly nothing was ever so well-calculated to display a fine shape to advantage as the Circassian corset, whihc has been patronized and recommended with incredible celerity by ladies of the highest distinction, who are unaninous in declaring it to be the only corset ever introduced that has in every way answered the encomiums bestowed upon it. The superios ease, gracefulness, and elegance which it gives to the female figure are too obvious to need comment; while, on the other hand, its beneficial efects upon the health are daily attested by ladies who rejoice in the success of an invention whihc has freed them from the tortures inflicted by whalebone, steel, etc. We must not omit to observe that the walking bonnet of this month, whihc is composed of white satin and rose coloured velvet, and ornamented with a plume of white feathers, will certainly become general, as it is a most elegant bonnet; it is worn over a small white lace cap. Rose-coloure jabe, or leather boots, and Limerick gloves. The above dress was invented by Mrs. Bell, Inventress of the Ladies' Chapeau Bras, at her Magazin des Modes, No. 26, Charlotte Street, Beford Square." |
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Ackermann's Repository
October 1814
"Promenade Dress"
Magazine text:
"Celestial blue or French grey silk skirt, buttons and trimmed down the front with a full border of lace, gathered on a plain heading, terminating at the bottom with a deep flounce of the same; high-drawn body, made either of sarsent or India muslin; long full sleeve, confined at the wrist by a bracelet of blue satin bead and emerald clasp. Lace ruff round the neck. A net handkerchief crossed over the bosom and tied in bows behind. Full-bordered lace cap, ornamented with a small wreath of flowers on one side. A French straw bonnet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed round the edge with a narrow quilling of net lace; a small plume of ostrich feathers in the center of the crown. Sandals of blue kid. Gloves, York tan or Limerick."
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Figure 7
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Figure 8
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Ackermann's Repository
October 1814 "Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"An evening primrose-coloured French sarsnet petticoat, trimmed round the bottom with a double border of clear muslin, with reversed drawstrings; long sleeve, drawn to correspond. A silk ruff. A silk net handkerchief-sash, tied in streamers and small bows behind. A Shipton straw bonnet, tied under the chin with a net handkerchief crossing the crown, and trimmed with a band of the same silk net. Sandals of evening primrose-coloured kid. Gloves to correspond."
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Ackermann's Repository
November 1814
"Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond. The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in front. French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure. Gloves, Limerick or York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid." |
Figure 9
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Figure 10
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Ackermann's Repository
March 1815
"Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"Pelisse of short walking length, made of evening-primrose coloured velvet, ornamented down the front with satin trimming; round capes, trimmed to correspond; full lace ruff. A French bonnet, composed of white velvet and satin in reverse plaitings, trimmed round the edge with a quilting of lace; full plume of ostrich feathers in the front. Half-boots of tan-coloured kid. Gloves, Limerick or York tan."
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La Belle Assemblée
April 1815 (printed in the March issue)
"Britannia Witzchoura Walking Dress"
Invented and to be had only of Mrs. Bell
Magazine text:
"French cambric high-dress with a chemise back something broader than those of last month, and a waist as short as it can be made. The sleeve, which is of course long, is singularly novel and tasteful, as our readers will see by the Print: three rows of rich worked muslin, placed one above the other, finish the dress at the bottom, and a full trimming of the finest Valenciennes edging goes round the bottom of the sleeve and the collar of the dress; the latter, which is extremely pretty, is composed of rich worked muslin to correspond with the trimming: it is byas, and falls back so as to display a little of the throat in front. |
Figure 11
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The Witzchoura mantle and spenser which is worn with this dress, is composed of blue twilled sarsnet, lined with white satin, and trimmed with Mrs. Bell's new invented pearl silk trimming; the spenser is made of white satin to correspond with the mantle. We cannot refer our reader to the print for the form of the Witzchoura, because it would only convey an inadequate idea of this most tasteful and elegant mantle; nor shall we attempt to describe the manner in which it is made, because we are convinced that our fair readers cannot form a judgment of it without seeing it. We must, in justice to Mrs. Bell, to whose elegant taste the public are indebted for the improved Witzchoura, observe that it is the most tasteful and becoming mantle we have ever seen: its form is extremely simple, and when properly put on, it falls in such easy graceful folds that even a tolerably pretty figure must be irresistible in a Witzchoura. The materials of this mantle are generally sarsnet, but satin or French silk are in estimation with some elegantés. The spenser and the lining are uniformly white, and the former is always composed of satin, but blue, light-green, and the most delicate shade of wild rose shot with white are most prevalent. French bonnet made of pearl silk to correspond with the mantle; white kid gloves, and pale blue slippers." |
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Figure 12
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La Belle Assemblée
May 1815 (printed in the April issue)
"Angouleme Walking Dress"
Invented and to be had only of Mrs. Bell
Magazine text:
"Half high dress of the finest cambric or jaconet muslin, made tight to the shape behind, and seamed up the back, round the arm-hole, and under the arms with narrow letting-in lace; the front is full, and is composed of two byas pieces of muslin tightened in to the shape by the letting-in lace to correspond; the waist is very short; the dress is trimmed round the bosom with a double frill of very fine lace put on as full as possible.
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Over this is worn the Angouleme spenser, for the form of which we refer our readers to the Print; it is made wither in peach blossom satin, or white kerseymere, the last, though late in the season, is much in estimation. The form of this spenser is perfectly original, and we do not recollect having ever seen anything more tasteful and elegant, it is exquisitely becoming to the shape, particularly when worn with the Circassian corset; and the trimming we conceive to be the most elegant novelty that has ever been introduced; it is composed of silk, and united in an uncommon degree two things generally considered as opposite, richness and lightness. Each side of the bosom is ornamented with a fleur de lis, and the epaulets on the sleeves and the ends of the fronts, are finished with tassels. The head-dress worn with this elegant spenser is strikingly novel and tasteful; it is composed of peach blossom, moss silk, and white satin, and ornamented with a superb plume of feathers. Ladies who are partial to head-dresses of this description will find the Angouleme cap particularly worthy of their notice, and we are sure will coincide with us in opinion that it is not only remarkably elegant but, generally speaking, exquisitely becoming." |
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Ackermann's Repository
July 1815
"Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"A high dress of short walking length, made of French cambric or jaconet muslin, trimmed at the feet with treble flounces of French work, gathered into a rich bead-heading, and laid upon the dress, at a suitable distance, one above the other; the body made with open fronts, worn with a full ruff of the French work, corresponding to the trimming at the feet; a long sleeve, drawn alternately across the arm, terminates with a broad wristband, worn plain over the hand. French bonnet of white satin, edged and tied under the chin with satin ribbands of celestial blue; ornamented with a rich plume of white feathers, edged to correspond. French mantle of the twilled silk en suite, richly embroidered at the ends in shaded silks, composing roses or lilies of the valley. Patent silk stockings. Slippers, or half-boots, of blue kid, or primrose colour. Gloves to correspond." |
Figure 13
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Figure 14
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La Belle Assemblée
August 1815 (printed in the July issue)
"Waterloo Walking Dress"
Magazine text:
"This very beautiful dress, which answers the double purpose of a walking or dinner dress, is composed of clear muslin, and is made in the most original and tasteful style: the petticoat, as our readers will perceive by the Print, is ornamented in an elegant and appropriate manner with a tasteful black trimming. The body and sleeves, composed of an intermixture of black satin and clear muslin, are exquisitely fancied; they are made in a style of novelty, elegance, and simplicity, which we never recollect seeing equaled in the mourning costume. The Waterloo dress, when worn for dinner parties, has no shirt, but some ladies shade the neck a little by a narrow frill of white crape round the bosom. In the walking costume, it is worn with a shirt invented for the occasion, and trimmed in a very novel and appropriate style. Of the hat worn with this dress we can only observe that it is the most elegant and striking headdress ever invented for mourning; it is an intermixture of white satin and black crape, most tastefully ornamented with either black or white feathers. Black or white kid sandals and white kid gloves finish this dress, the effect of which altogether is much more elegant than our fair readers can conceive either from the Print or from our description."
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La Belle Assemblée
September 1815 (printed in the August issue)
"Autumnal Walking Dress"
Invented by Mrs. Bell
Magazine text:
"Pelisse of French violet silk, or rich twilled violet sarsnet; it is made in the French style, open in front, very short in the waist, and the back drawn in behind with an easy fullness. Long loose plain sleeve, ornamented on each shoulder with a bow and long ends. This pelisse is trimmed in a style of great elegance and originality with byas white satin laid on in folds, and points of sarsnet, to correspond with the pelisse, are turned over; the effect is strikingly beautiful. Bonnet to correspond, ornamented with artificial flowers, and tied under the chin with ribband of a similar colour. For the form and trimming of this bonnet, we refer our readers to the Print, which will give them a correct idea of its exquisitely modest, simple, and gentlewomanly effect. Slippers to correspond, and white kid gloves." |
Figure 15
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For more information on fashion prints, see these sources:
Alison Adburgham, Women in Print: Writing Women and Women's Magazine from the Restoration to the Accession of Victoria, George Allen and Unwin Ltd., 1972.
Irene Dancyger, A World of Women: An Illustrated Hisotry of Women's Magazines 1700-1970, Gill and Macmillan, 1978.
Madeleine Ginsburg, An Introduction to Fashion Illustration, Victoria & Albert Museum, 1980.
Vyvyan Holland, Hand Coloured Fashion Plates 1770-1899, Batsford, 1955.
Doris Langley Moore, Fashion Through Fashion Plates 1771-1970, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1971.
Sacheverell Sitwell and Doris Langley Moore, Gallery of Fashion 1790-1822, Batsford, 1949.
Cynthia L. White, Women's Magazines 1693-1968, Michael Joseph, 1970.
Alison Adburgham, Women in Print: Writing Women and Women's Magazine from the Restoration to the Accession of Victoria, George Allen and Unwin Ltd., 1972.
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